Guides ·Food & drink

Signature dishes of India in Punjab

Punjab invented most of the dishes the world thinks of as Indian food — here are the 7 you should eat where they were actually born.

Guide

Food & drink

Length

6 min read

Region

Punjab

Butter chicken and naan being served at an Amritsar dhaba

Butter chicken, dal makhani, and Amritsari kulcha

Butter chicken (murgh makhani) was invented at Moti Mahal in 1947 by Kundan Lal Gujral, a Punjabi refugee — eat it at Kesar Da Dhaba in Amritsar's Chowk Passian, roughly $6. Dal makhani, the same restaurant's slow-cooked black lentil, is arguably better than the chicken. Amritsari kulcha is the local's breakfast: crisp stuffed bread baked in a tandoor, served with chole and pickled onions. Kulcha Land on Ranjit Avenue is the classic ($2 a plate); Monga Kulcha on Maqbool Road runs a close second.

Sarson da saag, makki di roti, and lassi

Sarson da saag (mustard greens) with makki di roti (cornmeal flatbread) is the winter dish, at its best December-February when mustard is fresh. Bhrawan Da Dhaba near Town Hall does the definitive version for $4, topped with white butter. Follow with sweet lassi — Ahuja Milk Bhandar on Lawrence Road does it thick enough to eat with a spoon for $1.50. Gian Chand Lassi Wale opposite is the sweeter, slightly more theatrical rival. Both cash-only, both open by 7am.

Amritsari fish and chole bhature

Amritsari fish is river sole marinated in ajwain, gram flour and chilli, then deep-fried — Makhan Fish and Chicken Corner near Madan Chowk is the temple, $5 for a large portion. Eat it standing, dipped in mint chutney. Chole bhature (chickpea curry with fried bread) hits everywhere but Kanha Sweets on Lawrence Road is the local vote — $1.50 and served all day. For a full sweep, add jalebi from Gurdas Ram Jalebi Wala at Bazaar Kilaan — hot, saffron-yellow, $1 for four.

Frequently asked questions

What people ask before they set off on this one.

Where was butter chicken invented?

At Moti Mahal in Peshawar, then relocated to Delhi after Partition. Its creator Kundan Lal Gujral was a Punjabi refugee, and the dish is central to Punjab's food identity.

What's the difference between chole bhature and chole kulche?

Bhature are deep-fried leavened breads; kulcha is a tandoor-baked stuffed flatbread. Both come with chickpea curry; kulcha is drier and lighter.

Is Amritsari fish really river fish?

Traditionally river sole from the Ravi; today most restaurants use farmed sole or basa. The marinade — ajwain, gram flour, red chilli — is what defines the dish.

When is the best time to eat sarson da saag?

December to February, when mustard greens are in season. Restaurants serve it year-round but the winter version, with fresh greens and white butter, is on a different level.

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